Filter By Category
To cut a metal handrail, you can use a chop saw with a blade that is rated to cut metal, or a ferrous blade. Some customers even choose to just use a really good wood cutting blade for aluminum handrails. When cutting aluminum, it is helpful to also use a blade wax to help keep the aluminum off the blade.
You can use our 6001 wood handrail or Endurance Treads, but anything else is only rated for interior use. Our wood glue is not rated for the exterior.
Drilling a metal handrail is not as hard as it sounds. It just requires the correct tools and method. To start, make sure you have a good drill bit designed to drill metal. There are a variety of options. Cobalt steel drill bits are great for tougher stainless steel. With aluminum it's not as difficult, although a super heated drill bit can cause issues. When drilling stainless steel (or any metal) it is best to have a lubricated drill bit. There are a lot of options for drill bit lubricant or cutting oils as well. When drilling steel, one of the lesser known facts is to go slow. Drilling creates a lot of friction and therefore heat, and when heated, stainless steel begins to harden and becomes more difficult to drill. Taking breaks and continuing to use oil can help prevent this.
Our handrail bracket is not specifically designed for mounting to a concrete wall as the mounting hardware is for a wood application. However, if you would like to source your own concrete hardware, customers have been able to mount the bracket to concrete.
When connecting your handrail at a 90 degree corner, you have two options. You can either "butt joint" your handrail and simply set the end against the side of the other handrail. Or, you can miter your handrail. To miter your handrail you cut each handrail at 45 degrees and set them together with a diagonal seam to make the 90 degree turn. On a metal railing system, this seam needs to be supported on top of a post.
Use a fine metal cutting blade to get a nice cut on the handrail. Carefully file off any burrs. Butt the two mitered ends together over a post bracket. Use matching touch up paint to reseal the metal.
On a straight connection point, simply butt two finished ends together over top of a post bracket.
Wood handrails, newels, and wood balusters are frequently touched items that require a Pre-catalyzed Lacquer finish. This finish is often used on kitchen cabinets as it’s designed to hold up against the natural oils on skin. That means that you don’t have to worry about what your hands are doing to your railing as you clutch your railing when you travel up and down your stairs. Instead, you can be confident that your stain will look beautiful for years to come.
Yes! We can do this. Please call one of our representatives and they can put this order together for you.
Viewrail FLIGHT is engineered and manufactured to order with next-level precision. Viewrail provides easy-to-take measurements. It arrives to you in pieces for a bolt-together assembly making it easy to install yourself... but you don’t have to. Viewrail is now offering full-service packages which include collection of field measurements and installation.
The stringer is shipped in individual pieces to ensure the product is not damaged during shipment. There's no way for us to ship it assembled. That said, we send extremely comprehensive installation guides that will help make this process easy for you.
Upon receipt of project details (photos, floor plans, and/or basic field dimensions) Viewrail’s experienced designers will be equipped to assist you in customizing a stair and railing package that’s right for you and your project. With a design selected, our world-class engineering team will create shop drawings of the stairway to ensure a precise fit in your space.
For the most part, one wood species is not "better" or "worse" than another. In many senses choosing a wood species and finish is a subjective choice. There are a few things to consider when selecting a wood species though. 1) Hardness, measured on the Janka scale, quantifies the density of the wood. The higher the Janka rating, the more durable the wood. 2) Grain pattern, some wood species, such as Hickory and White Oak, have well defined grain patterns, while others, such as Hard Maple, are more mild in nature. 3) Color, are you seeking something with a high level of color variation and character? Hickory or Walnut may be a good choice for you. Or rather, are you seeking something that is more single-toned and consistent? Hard Maple or Oak may be a good fit.
You are able to provide your own treads but you must have the ability to fabricate the treads to the dimensions that we specify. We can't build the FLIGHT system around a specific treads and tread dimensions that have already been chosen.
B posts are designed to be mounted towards the front of each tread, BC posts are designed to be mounted in the middle of the tread, and BR posts are designed to be mounted at the rear of the tread.
All of our systems are designed to meet the International Building Code which states that post spacing should not exceed 48” from post face to post face. Keeping this in mind, just space the posts equally while abiding by this code.
You will need to occupy 4 of the pre-drilled holes in each post mounting plate for a secure connection.
Any Surface Mounted Post needs to have at least 4" of solid mounting surfaces. Any Side Mounted Post needs to have at least 6" of solid material to mount into. If you are through bolting a Side Mount Post, you need at least 4" of solid material.
You will need our 5/16" x 3.5" or 4" post mounting screws for any Surface Mounted Posts. If you are mounting on a 3" thick tread, you can use the 2.5" post mounting screws. For Side Mounted Posts you will need to use the 6" post mounting screw. There are "through bolt" options for each post type as well.
The top of your mounting plate is designed to sit 1 3/8" under the top of your mounting surface, or deck surface. Each plate is 6" tall, so you will need at least 8" of fascia board.
This depends on your deck overhang and blocking location. When mounting your post, it's important to have the mounting holes above sufficient blocking. For surface mounted posts, this means 3.75" or more. If you are running a screw into that blocking, make sure to have the screw off the edge of the blocking material so it doesn't split out.
A 4" wide kneewall is the most narrow for our standard angle foot posts. We do have a narrow foot post available for kneewall widths between 3"-4". Call a representative today if you need the narrow angle foot post.
We would recommend our Special Application foot post. This has a 4.5" x 4.5" mounting plate allowing the mounting holes to be spread further apart.
We wouldn't recommend mounting posts to pavers or bricks since these are typically not structural or attached well enough to existing structure to pass code.. Call one of our representatives to see what your options are for this application.
The additional block is 2" x 2" x 6", making the total post mounting dimensions: 2" wide, 6" tall, and 4" bumped out from the fascia.
Yes, these can be used together. The each have 3/8" thick plates, so they will be in line with each other.
Either post can be used as an intermediate (pass through) post for cable. However, the "A-2" post uses Steel Insert Sleeves as a washer for the cable to run through. "A-5" posts do not have Steel Insert Sleeves. The 5/32" cable passes through 5/16" holes.
Each post is used to transition the cable from an angle run to a perpendicular level run. A "D" Post is used when you are making that transition between two runs at the same height. For example, a 36" high angled run to a perpendicular 36" high level run. An "I" Post is used when you are making that transition from a shorter angled to run to a taller level run. For example, a 36" tall angled run to a perpendicular 39" tall level run.
Yes, however, it has a standard black powder coat and comes with carbon steel post mounting screws/ As a result, it cannot be used within 5 miles of a saltwater coast.
Our cable is sent in spools of 100' or 400'. It is a 1x19 strand of 316 Stainless Steel Cable.
We do not crimp the cable before shipping the product to you. The reason being, projects almost always are tweaked on site. Even if we feel we know all your lengths, it's likely a post will end up installed 1" off of what we thought, and so the cable kits would be wrong. That said, crimping is not difficult to do. The cable crimpers we send with our tool kits are easy to use and provide a strong connection.
Each post is used to transition the cable from an angle run to a straight level run. A "G" Post is used when you are making that transition between two runs at the same height. For example, a 36" high angled run to a 36" high level run. An "H" Post is used when you are making that transition from a shorter angled to run to a taller level run. For example, a 36" tall angled run to a 39" tall level run.
The amount of kits needed depend on the height of the post. For a 36" post you will need 10 kits per end post. For a 39" post you will need 11 kits and for a 42" post you will need 12 kits.
No, our components are precisely engineered to work specifically with our 5/32" cable.
No, most companies fittings are designed for a different sized cable, or even a different quality of stainless steel cable. Even when customers use a "cheaper" 5/32" cable they found, the quality is usually lacking and the cable stretches. Similarly, our fittings are specifically designed to fit within our 2" x 2" posts and their subsequent wall thickness.
This depends on the kits used. For any run with a "Level Tension Kit to Level Tension Kit" connection, 50' is the longest run recommended for optimal strength. If you have an "Inside Post Mount Kit to Level Tension Kit" run, 30' is the longest recommended length. If you have an "Angle Tension Kit to Angle Tension Kit" run, 30' is the longest recommended length.
A "C" Post is either labeled as a Left or Right. Because they appear to be interchangeable they are often misplaced. However, on each "C" Post there are holes for a Level Tension Kit, and holes for a Inside Post Mount Kit. Typically, the Inside Post Mount Kit should be "pointing" towards the shortest run. Another way to remember this would be if you are standing on a deck, facing the corner post and the Inside Post Mount Kit cable run is going to your right, it is a "C" Right Post. Here is an example. You are on a U shaped deck facing outwards. There is an 8' run on your left, a 12' run in front of you, and an 8' run on your right. The corner post on your left should be a "C" Left, and the corner post on your right should be a "C" Right. This allows the longest middle run to have tension kits on either end. Keep in mind you cannot have two Inside Post Mount kits running to each other as there won't be a way to tension that run.
Our cable is 5/32" in diameter.
If you have provided the accurate angle to us for the post manufacturing and the cable still won't fit easily, try taping on our "guide pin" that comes in the installation kit to the end of the cable. Usually you can easily pass this through the hole and pull the cable through. If for some reason this is still not working, likely you have a steeper than average angle. If this is the case, then you may have to grab a 5/16" drill bit and angle out the hole a bit. Don't over do this step, as you still want the Adhesive Sleeve to cover your hole.
Our cables are spaced out 3 1/8" on center. When using a 4' spacing between posts, this keeps your gaps code compliant.
We are able to turn a corner using a "C" Post, which utilizes two hardware kits inside the post. The "KeyMount Kit" locks to the inside of the post and takes up minimal space, while the "Level Tension Kit" runs through the post on a perpendicular line. Each hole is at the same height location, so the cable runs do not need to be offset.
Yes, you can usually turn a 135 degree corner. This is a project specific situation, and it's typically best to work with one of our sales representatives to make sure it will work. We recommend double posting this corner to help make a smooth transition. It is also recommended that you only attempt to do this turn if there are level tension kits on each end of the run, and that the run is no longer than 40' total.
2205 is a marine grade stainless steel designed to withstand most harsh corrosive environments.
No, the hole spacing won't line up correctly. By code, 2" x 2" posts are required every 4' to withstand the correct amount of force.
Pool water is highly corrosive to aluminum. A fluoropolymer powdercoat will help increase corrosion resistance, but we only recommend 2205 marine grade stainless steel to be used around a pool. 2205 SS can be powder coated if you don't want the brushed stainless look.
Any wood type with a Janka Hardness rating of 690 or above is sufficient for DriveTite. This the rating on pressure treated pine. Cypress, Douglas Fir, Western Red Cedar are all too soft for DriveTite.
No, Cypress, Cedar, Douglas Fir are all too soft for DriveTite/RodTite. You would need to purchase Wood Level/Angle Tension Kits. DriveTite/RodTite requires a Janka Hardness rating of 690 or above.
A, B-Up, B-Down, C, D, G, I , are all paired with a tension kit.
C, F, H, J, R all pair with a key mount kit.
Raw aluminum posts will quickly begin to oxidize without a coating as it reacts to the moisture and oxygen in the air. If you need raw aluminum posts, call one of our representatives to discuss your options.
DriveTite needs to be mounted into at least 2.5" of solid material in order to hold correctly.
RodTite needs to be mounted into at least 2.5" of solid material in order to hold correctly.
Yes, it is likely possible. Call a representative today to inquire about a custom sized post.
Yes! Our Express Railing is in stock and ships within 1 business day. This is not recommended for coastal applications (within 5 miles of saltwater). DriveTite Kits are also an "IN STOCK" option. DriveTite is cable and kits are paired with wood posts.
Rods are easy to cut. We are able to provide an angle grinder and grinding wheels if needed. While you can use anything rated to cut metal, we have found the angle grinder is easily handled and precise. Use our deburring tool to quickly remove any rough edges or burrs from the cut.
Yes, rods do finish with better test results than cable. Cable is still extremely strong, but the solid design of the rods and the hardware used provides incredible strength.
Yes, Onyx Rods can be used outside. However, they have a standard black powder coat on 304 Stainless Steel and cannot be used within 5 miles of any salwater coast.
Yes and no. Yes, if they are not tensioned, these rods can be bent. However, once tensioned with opposite lateral force, the rods become extremely difficult to bend. Rods can run along a curve before being tensioned, then once tensioned are very difficult to bend.
Typically no. Although it depends on the amount of damage done, most of the time rods can be "retightened" and straightened out without any issue.
Standard Stainless Steel 1/4" rods are available in 4', 6', 8', 10', 12', 14', 16', 18', and 20'. Onyx 1/4" Rods are available in 4', 6', 8', 10', and 12'.
With Rod Couplers you are able to connect certain lengths to create a rod length that matches your run. It is recommended to keep your rod lengths 40' and under. With more than one coupler, it becomes difficult to hide the coupler and crimp marks inside the post.
Keep the foam inserts. They are designed to be inserted into the post before mounting down the post. This helps prevent the rods from moving around inside the post holes, keeping the system quiet.
A "C" Post is either labeled as a Left or Right. Because they appear to be interchangeable they are often misplaced. However, on each "C" Post there are holes for a Level Tension Kit, and holes for a Rod Anchor Kit. Typically, the Rod Anchor Kit should be "pointing" towards the shortest run. Another way to remember this would be if you are standing on a deck, facing the corner post and the Rod Anchor Kit rod run is going to your right, it is a "C" RIght Post. Here is an example. You are on a U shaped deck facing outwards. There is an 8' run on your left, a 12' run in front of you, and an 8' run on your right. The corner post on your left should be a "C" Left, and the corner post on your right should be a "C" RIght. This allows the longest middle run to have tension kits on either end.
We are able to turn a corner using a "C" Post, which utilizes two hardware kits inside the post. The "Rod Level Anchor Kit" locks to the inside of the post and takes up minimal space, while the "Level Tension Kit" runs through the post on a perpendicular line. Each hole is at the same height location, so the rod runs do not need to be offset.
Yes, you can usually turn a 135 degree corner. This is a project specific situation, and it's typically best to work with one of our sales representatives to make sure it will work. With rods, it requires on-site bending and is reliant on the installer to do. Some customers choose to pre-bend the rods and slot them through the post, and others will mount the post and bend the rod against the post holes to make the turn. Rods are a little trickier than cable to make a single 135 degree turn.
Any wood type with a Janka Hardness rating of 690 or above is sufficient for RodTite. This the rating on pressure treated pine. Cypress, Douglas Fir, Western Red Cedar are all too soft for RodTite.
The posts have 5/16" holes for the rods.
Yes! Although not available to purchase through the website, we have an entire Glass Department and glass production plant. Each panel is custom engineered and produced to fit your specific project.
Tempered glass railing panels are extremely strong by nature. They are constructed to withstand large amounts of force. For each project we build custom crates specifically to transport glass directly to you. With the correct padding and crate construction, it's easy to consistently ship glass safely.
Yes, absolutely. There is an enormous difference between the production process for a glass cup compared to a glass railing panel. There's a reason so many commercial, high traffic buildings have glass railing. Glass typically yields the strongest test results out of any railing.
We ship out glass projects everyday. Before we start the engineering process for a glass order, we ship to you to scale Acrylic Templates. Using the double sided tape we send, you simply mount the templates in place where you want your glass ends, measure the outside to outside, and write it down for us. We take those measurements, have our engineering team plug them into a custom coded generator, and out pops your glass dimensions. These are then reviewed by your Glass Tech Representative and yourself. Once you both are comfortable with the drawings, we begin production.
With each glass project, we send out an installation kit that include glass moving clamps. These are high strength suction cups that attach to the glass panel. Because panels are generally around 4' wide, they can be moved with these clamps. It may be good to have a partner help with the move.
The 2205 Stainless Steel we use is a very tough stainless steel. We have found the best success when customer use a ferrous blade on a miter saw to trim their top cap.
The gasket is designed to fit over the glass before you place the metal top cap on. You can spray windex on the glass before placing on the rubber gasket to help with its positioning.
You will receive several plastic inserts with each talon. They will have a color coded sticker on the insert. For any glass you are receiving from us (1/2" or 9/16") you will use the yellow and red gaskets. These are placed inside the metal tilt lock clamps and will be what makes contact with the glass.
1/2" Tempered Glass is the standard for residential projects. It works with any of our systems and is incredibly strong. Glass rarely breaks, but just to describe a physical trait of a tempered panel, when tempered glass breaks it is broken into a bunch of small glass cubes. This is not at all similar to the "shard like" glass you think of with a broken cup. 9/16" Laminated Glass is the standard for extreme wind and commercial projects. It consists of two layers of 1/4" tempered glass and lamination in the middle holding them together. Think of a car windshield. These panels are able to flex a little bit more and can withstand higher (albeit slightly excessive) force. In the event of a panel breaking, the glass is designed to bend or fold over, but remain most in tact.
Your tracking number will not go live until the freight carrier scans the shipment at their facility. If you just received the email with tracking, please wait until later in the evening then try it again. If you’re still getting the same message then, please reach out to us.
We ship to anywhere in the United States and into Canada. If you want our product shipped to a country other than the US and Canada, we can ship it to a freight forwarder, at which point the shipment is your responsibility.
Free Shipping on orders over $999* inside the contiguous United States. Free shipping applies up to 10% of the order total. If the shipping rate is more than 10% of the order total then you will be asked to pay the remainder.
Tempered glass railing panels are strong by nature. They are constructed to withstand extremely large amounts of force. For each project we build custom crates specifically to transport glass directly to you. With the correct padding and crate construction, it's easy to safely ship glass .
This depends on the size of your shipment. If your shipping notification references a "GROUND" shipment, this can be dropped off. If it is a "FREIGHT" shipment, someone will need to be present to sign for the delivery. The freight carrier will reach out during transit to schedule the delivery.
If you receive a finished wood product produced by us, we include the clearcoat in our finish
All of our wood products are manufactured out of solid (not hollow) lumber, we do not use veneers. Some of our products are made of several pieces glued together, but all those pieces are solid lumber.
Our products are not measured with lumber or nominal measurements. Each measurement you see is accurate to what you will receive
We will not mix a custom stain to match, but if you send in a sample of your existing wood to us, our team will match that to the closest stain option we offer.
The 1” tread is used when there is no substructure tread in place, and/or when you are tearing out the existing tread. The replacement tread is used when you are keeping the existing substructure or tread and simply need a new tread to slide over place.
Any wood species with a Janka rating of 900 or above is considered a good option to use for tread material. As a product designed to withstand repeated and concentrated foot traffic, it is important to use a dense enough wood to withstand years of use.
Regardless of whether you use tread returns or not, the width of your tread should match the width of the surface you need to cover. This is called the “throat cut.” Returns are additional pieces designed to overhang open space, and are not included in the tread width dimension. If you do not have double returns, it is recommended to oversize the tread width slightly. This will allow you to have "room for error" and you can trim the thread on site to fit each step perfectly.
A tread return is additional material on the left or right side of the tread body that is designed to overhang “open space.” These are rounded to match the front of the step, or bullnose, and provide a beautiful finished edge. Each return is 1 ¼” wide, and is additional to your tread width. For example, if you select a 36” tread with returns on both sides, the throat cut would be 36" while the total tread width including the returns would be 38 ½”.
Tread depth is the total front to back measurement of the tread. Unlike tread returns, the 1 ¼” front nosing is included in this measurement. For example, if you have a 11 ¼” deep tread, only 10” of that measurement is designed to sit on the structure.
You can use our 6001 wood handrail or Endurance Treads, but anything else is only rated for interior use. Our wood glue is not rated for the exterior.
We use an oil based varnish with either a 5 or 30 sheen finish.
For the most part, one wood species is not "better" or "worse" than another. In many senses choosing a wood species and finish is a subjective choice. There are a few things to consider when selecting a wood species though. 1) Hardness, measured on the Janka scale, quantifies the density of the wood. The higher the Janka rating, the more durable the wood. 2) Grain pattern, some wood species, such as Hickory and White Oak, have well defined grain patterns, while others, such as Hard Maple, are more mild in nature. 3) Color, are you seeking something with a high level of color variation and character? Hickory or Walnut may be a good choice for you. Or rather, are you seeking something that is more single-toned and consistent? Hard Maple or Oak may be a good fit.
For an exterior application, we offer the thicker "Endurance Treads" that are typically used on open stair cases. Our other wood tread material is not treated for exterior use and our wood glue is not rated for the outdoors.
The throat cut is referring to the length of the back of the tread body. Typically this is used when referring to treads with double returns or a starting step.
On average, there are about 13 staves of solid wood that make up the thick tread.
All tread materials and other products that you step on are finished with a Conversion Varnish. Used in the hardwood flooring industry, Conversion Varnish is strong and prepared to handle heavy use. Because it is sprayed onto products, Conversion Varnish is only sold in specialty stores. With Conversion Varnish, you’ll receive high-quality treads that will endure over time.
Conversion varnish is much more durable and easier to clean than a standard polyurethane.
Our wood products are built to order and as a result are not returnable. If you have questions or are concerned about your tread order, call in and work with our sales representatives and they can assist.
This depends on what look you are going for and where you live. We have three different metal types: 304 Stainless Steel, 2205 Stainless Steel, and Aluminum. If you are looking at a Stainless Steel finish, 304 SS can be used 5+ miles from a salt water coast, while 2205 SS can be used in most coastal areas. 2205 Stainless Steel is our marine grade steel. If you are wanting a powder coated finish, Aluminum will be the best choice. Since it is a softer metal we are able to create a surface area that bonds really well with a powder coat. When choosing your Aluminum and finish, there are two powder coat types, each with several color options. The first is a standard powder coat. This can be used 5+ miles from the coast. The second is a Fluoropolymer powder coat. This can be used on the coast and is our marine grade powder coat. The Fluoropolymer powder coat is also extremely UV resistant and does well in high sun areas. It has a slight gloss to the finish.
The lead time is how many days it takes us to build and package your order. This does NOT include transit time. Typical transit times are 1-5 days depending on where you are located. These would be added to the lead time.
We recommend a 7 gauge Stainless Steel hinge post for supporting the weight of the gate over time.
The largest single gate is 42" tall x 48" wide which fits into a gap of 49.125" (49 1/8"). If you have a gap larger than 49.125" you will need to switch to a double gate. Stainless Steel gates can go up to this maximum size. The maximum size for an aluminum gate is 42" Tall x 42" Wide.
